A DREAM came true for Pennyweight Winery's Stephen Morris when he started a 10–acre vineyard from scratch 40 years ago, that now yields exceptional grapes for producing its wines.
The fourth–generation winemaker from the Morris family with their more than 160–year–old winemaking history, had been indecisive about a career in his younger years and although he grew up in the wine industry, he eventually realised what he wanted to do for the rest of his life.
Stephen's great grandfather George Francis Morris started a vineyard in Rutherglen in 1860, his grandfather Charles Hugh Morris created Morris Wines at Mia Mia vineyard in Rutherglen at the turn of the century while his father Frederick was a Morris Wines partner at Mia Mia until the winery's sale in 1970.
"All I wanted to do was grow grapes and make wine and it was a wonderful thing to get to that point," Stephen said.
On the hunt for land meeting the right grape growing conditions, Stephen said Beechworth had been climatically attractive with its cool climate, and he and his wife Elizabeth moved to the town in 1977.
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"It was in June, and we couldn't find suitable land, so we bought a house in town and I kept a lookout for property with specific requirements including rich soil and having a north east aspect until eventually we discovered the land where we are today," he said.
Ensuring environmental best practice in caring for the land, the certified organic and biodynamic vineyard named after the nearby Pennyweight Flat gold field discovered in 1852 was established five years after Stephen and Elizabeth moved to Beechworth with this year marking its 40–year anniversary.
"It's proved to be an excellent area for table and other more elegant style white wines with the soil and climate," Stephen said.
A 10–acre vineyard – also a certified organic and biodynamic one – established in Rutherglen which is a region well–known for its fortified wines is named Sun Low Kee who bought land in 1918 for a market garden, where Pennyweight's grapes are grown for its ports, muscat, sherries, Durif and Shiraz.
Although Stephen had a strong background in the wine industry, he embarked on viticulture studies followed by an Applied Science degree at Charles Sturt University while he and Elizabeth raised three sons.
"Our success has been very much to Elizabeth's credit where she managed with three children, me studying and working full–time in the wine business, and to even stay open while I undertook a six–week study trip to Europe," Stephen said.
"Elizabeth has had a total commitment to our project."
While Stephen's sons Charles and Frederick worked in the business for a long time, the vigneron finds the greatest reward is seeing the business continue with their middle son Steve and his wife, Danielle, taking it on with improvements and going forward where a next generation looks promising too with seven grandchildren.
"I'm still very happy to have made the right decision and it's now become a family business," Stephen says.
"It's wonderful to achieve your goal but it's done with a lot of hard work and dedication.
"We're very fortunate in having contributed to creating the Beechworth wine region which sets us apart from other regions with its climate and highly suitable soils."
Thinking back over the years, the changes in the wine industry seen by Stephen are quite extraordinary; being that when he was young there were only about 14 wineries in existence across Victoria.
Now there are 21 regions with more than 800 wineries and in excess of 600 cellar doors.
Five of those regions alone are in the North East with over 30 family owned and operated vineyards in Beechworth and nearby surrounds stretching from Everton and Murmungee to Stanley.
Stephen's winemaker son Steve, followed in his father's footsteps by studying a science degree however, he undertook his studies at Melbourne University
He is carrying on the wine business which he said has been a fantastic opportunity as his parents have done the hard yard in planting the vines and building the winemaking facilities.
"Now I get my turn too, and we have an amazing vineyard as well as producing incredible fruit to make some really good wines," he said.
Among sustainability strategies, Steve said crops of grain such as oats and legumes are grown between vines that help with drought strategies which assist to build the soils.
The vineyards are also dry land, and this helps encourage deep rooting.
Pennyweight Winery is known for its red and white table wines and fortified wines including Spanish style aperas all made from their estate grown grapes.
